
The Machrihanish Dunes Golf Club (“Mach Dunes”), a project of Boston-based Southworth Development, is the first course built on a Site of Special Scientific Interest (An SSSI is an area with rare flora and fauna.) in Scotland in a century. It’s also the first new course built on Scotland’s west coast in more than a century.
“Built” is the wrong word. There are new courses in Scotland that are the result of massive bulldozing—but this isn’t one of them. Because Mach Dunes is on an SSSI, the holes were dictated by the lay of the land, the presence of rare moths and orchids, and the clever eye of Kidd. There was minor earth-moving to shape the tees and greens, but you’d never know it. It feels as if it’s been there 100 years and evolved the way the old classics did. Valleys between the dunes created natural walking paths, and the fairways are simply mowed red fescue. The greens are wavy and very quick, thanks to a fine course management team.
Old Tom Morris (well, actor David Joy) said as much in his lilting Scottish accent. Joy was superb as Morris–eerily so—and I teared up when he talked about the death of his son, Young Tom. It was the evening before the Mach Dunes opening, in The Old Clubhouse pub that Southworth Development had restored. Gathered there for dinner were David Southworth and crew, his partner Brian Keating (who first envisioned the course years ago), several jolly members of the Royal & Ancient Golf Club, local politicians and members of the international media. We’d enjoyed a preview round on the course in beautiful weather–fortunately, because rain and wind would pelt the grand opening the following day.Kidd, who grew up playing at the Machrihanish Golf Club, had this to say about the site of Mach Dunes: “To historians of the game, Machrihanish Dunes may give us an insight into how golf looked and felt to my Scottish forebears years ago, as our intention was to create a course as ‘Old Tom’ would have done in centuries past.”

The third hole, a par three ranging from 186 to 138 yards, is a tricky shot over a bunker to a large but severely sculpted green. A par here is tough. The green of the par-four eighth is also wickedly wavy, and protected by a long carry over wetlands and a monster bunker. This may be the hardest hole on the course. The par-four 13th hole is short (314-184 yards) but success depends on the pin placement on the bowl-shaped green. Fourteen is a pretty par three next to the ocean. The three closing holes are long and exacting, coming at the end of an exhilarating battle of wits, stamina and skill. Tired as I was, I wanted to start over at number one.
Because of the sensitive nature of the environment at Mach Dunes, walking is required. You can walk with a caddie, carry your own bag or use a trolley. Greens fees range from 47 to 95 pounds, depending on the season. Caddies are $35 per bag, plus tip.
The opening of Machrihanish Dunes Golf Club, Southworth’s restoration of the Ugadale Hotel in Machrihanish and the Royal Hotel in Campbeltown, and the creation of the Ugadale Golf Cottages (for rent and fractional sales) has boosted the local economy without altering the area’s rural character. Fishermen set out to sea in the pre-dawn mist. Sheep graze in sprawling fields bordered by stone walls—and on the golf courses. Sleek black-and-white Friesan cattle mosey across the roads at milking time, urged on by ruddy-cheeked farmers. The locals who make their living off the land and sea always find time to have a round on courses most of us feel fortunate to play once in a lifetime.
This is what life is like on the “Mull of Kintyre” Sir Paul McCartney immortalized in song. He still lives there. Small wonder!
For more information, go to www.thewaygolfbegan.com. Check out www.southworthdevelopment.com for the company’s other projects, some of which you’ll read about here.
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